Ceiling Fans
Fans installed on properly rated boxes, balanced so they don’t wobble, with remotes and wall controls set up and tested.
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Light Fixture & Chandelier Installation
Replacing a light fixture is one of the highest-impact, lowest-cost changes you can make to a room. It’s also fiddly, overhead, and involves standing on a ladder holding something heavy while trying to line up three tiny screws.
I swap fixtures of every kind — flush mounts, semi-flush, pendants, multi-light chandeliers, vanity bars, under-cabinet strips, picture lights and exterior lanterns. Power off at the breaker and verified dead with a tester before anything gets touched, old fixture down, box checked, new fixture up, leveled, and the room cleaned before I go.
What's included
- Circuit isolated at the panel and verified dead with a non-contact tester
- Existing fixture removed and disposed of
- Ceiling box inspected — I’ll tell you if it isn’t rated for the new fixture
- New fixture assembled, hung, leveled and aimed
- Bulbs installed and dimmer compatibility checked
- Boxes, foam and packaging removed
Heavy chandeliers need a rated box
A standard ceiling box is rated for 50 lb of fixture weight. Anything heavier needs a box specifically listed for that load, properly braced to framing. Multi-arm chandeliers and large drum fixtures cross that line more often than people expect. If your box isn’t up to it, I’ll tell you before it goes up rather than after it comes down.
LED and dimmer compatibility
The most common complaint after a fixture swap is flicker or buzz on a dimmer. That’s almost never the fixture — it’s an old leading-edge (incandescent) dimmer trying to drive a low-wattage LED load. A modern trailing-edge / CL-rated dimmer matched to the fixture fixes it. I’ll check what you have and flag it.
Height and scale
A dining chandelier generally wants 30 to 36 inches of clearance above the table, and a fixture in an open room wants at least 7 feet of clearance to the floor. Diameter is the other half: a rough rule is to add the room dimensions in feet and use that number in inches as the fixture diameter. I’ll hang it at the height that actually looks right and let you eyeball it before final tightening.
What this costs
A straightforward flush-mount or pendant swap is usually under an hour. Large multi-arm chandeliers, high ceilings and staircase fixtures take longer — quoted before I start.
Recent light fixtures work
Light Fixtures — common questions
Can you install a fixture where there’s currently nothing?
Adding a brand-new lighting point means new circuit wiring, which is licensed electrical work in Florida. Swapping an existing fixture on an existing box is a different job entirely and that’s what I do.
My ceiling is 20 feet high in the stairwell. Can you reach it?
Usually yes — I carry ladders and can work over stairs with the right setup. Send me a photo and I’ll tell you honestly whether it needs a lift.
Will you take the old fixture away?
Yes, along with all the packaging from the new one.
Want to do it yourself?
No hard feelings. Here’s how to do it properly.
- Chandelier size and height: a room by room guideHow to pick chandelier size and hanging height using two simple rules, with a sizing table for dining rooms, foyers, bedrooms and high ceilings.
- How to replace a light fixture safely, step by stepReplace a light fixture the right way: kill the breaker, prove the wires are dead, check the box rating, and handle surprise wiring without guessing.
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Send a photo of the job and get a straight answer, a real price and a date — usually the same day you ask.